The Final Tally

Well, we finally sat down the other day and added it all up. Yup, everything. We'd guesstimated we were spending approx. $25/day for 2 people - a total bargain considering we never felt like we couldn't do something we really wanted due to cash. Yes, we were living simply, but we always had a private room, ate three meals a day and basically had the time of our lives. I know the numbers are skewed a bit with 4 months traveling in the U.S., 3 months in Europe and the balance in Asia, but here it is.

The actuality -

This includes everything - from airfare to get there and between countries, travelers health care, visas, day-to-day living... everything. Total = $38.40/day for 2 people

If we back out the variable and optional items, namely airfare + health care, we come up with a new grand total of... Total = $31.70/day for 2 people


I hope this helps some of you in your future trip planning :)

See all Recommendations

Click on the "Archive" tabs at the side to see all recommendations.

Countries -
India (North + South)
Nepal
Thailand
Cambodia
Vietnam (North + South)
Laos
China (By province)

The Best and Worst List

Total Time Spent on the Road?
31 Months

Number of Countries Visited?
10

Average number of Nights per City?
5 (Not counting our time living in Phnom Penh)

Longest Time in any One City?
1-2 weeks each in Barcelona, Valencia + Zarautz, Spain; 1 week in Paris, France; 2 weeks in Amsterdam, The Netherlands; 4 weeks in Varanasi, India; 2 weeks each in Rishikesh, Leh + Delhi, India; 6 weeks in Kathmandu, Nepal; 3 weeks in Bangkok + 10 days on Koh Mak Island, Thailand; 3 months working in Phnom Penh + 2 weeks in Siem Reap, Cambodia; 2 weeks in Vientianne + 1 week in Luang Prabang, Laos; 1-2 weeks each in Kunming + Xijiang, China; 4 weeks each in Hanoi + Hue, Vietnam; 2 weeks each in Hampi, Gokarna + Goa, India

Number of Friends that have Visited Us Abroad?
7 - Ken Phelps (SF x2), Rich Janda (NYC x2), Johan Hamberg (Germany), Mark Dobbrow, Tish Hendershot (by chance in Yangshuo), Joerg + Corinna (Germany), Eric + Maggie (SF)

Number of Friends + Family We have Visited while on the Road?
41 - Chris + Mari, Steve + Shelly, Scott + Tami, Marvel + Bob, Todd + Christy, Frank + Patricia, Tanya + Amanda, Charlie + Sachiko, Vinnie, Lori, Tom + Jo, Tom Hey, Jackie + Denny, Carrie, Marc + Sveta, Molly, Rich, Sharon, Nick, Tracy, Sherry, Maribel + Inaki (Spain), Karo (Amsterdam), Steve Goodman (Phnom Penh), Rick + Kami, Will + Aura

Average Daily Spending in Asia (2 people, including ground transportation + visa costs)?
$25 - Typical Accommodations $4-8, Meals $1-3/each. If not moving around and self-catering and/or eating at locals food stalls you can comfortably get by on $10 per person, per day.

Most Pleasant Surprise Destination + Why?
New Mexico - An underexplored gem of the American Southwest; Annapurna Circuit - We'd heard stories of this trek being overtouristed, but what we found FAR exceeded our highest expectations; China - The friendliness + curiosity of the people and beautiful nature, both natural + cultivated; Vietnam - I wasn't sure any one country could provide the perfect blend of modern comforts, freaky sights, good food, cheap living, spectacular scenery + engaging people, but this one does.

Most Disappointing Destination + Why?
Laos - The divide between locals + tourists and destruction of nature. We're STILL a bit perplexed why fellow travelers rate this one so high.

Most Spiritial Destinations?
Tabo Monastery - Spiti Valley, India; Varanasi, India; Boudhha - Kathmandu, Nepal; Vipassana Meditation Center, India

Least Spiritual Destinations?
China (too many years of religious suppression)

Most Chill Destinations?
Koh Mak Island, Thailand; Spiti Valley , Orchha + Goa, India; Don Det, Laos; Xijiang - Guizhou, China; Quan Lan Island, Vietnam

Noisiest Cities?
Kathmandu, Nepal; Bangkok, Thailand; Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) + Hanoi, Vietnam; Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Wierdest Cities?
Varanasi + Haridwar, India

Cleanest Country?
U.S., Holland (for Europe) + China (for Asia)

Dirtiest Country?
India

Number of Modes of Transportation?
22 - Pick-up (self-driven), plane, car taxi, a/c bus, train, subway, bicycle, cycle-rickshaw, moto-rickshaw, chicken bus, shikara, walking (for 30 days), tuk-tuk, moto taxi, cyclo, row boat, samlor, sawngthaew, motor boat, moto (self-driven), hitchhiking

Most Crazy/Dangerous Traffic?
Bangkok, Thailand; Ho Chi Minh City + Hanoi, Vietnam; Delhi + Mumbai, India

Worst Smokers?
Spanish + Chinese, followed by the Vietnamese. And other travelers.

Most Scenic Farming Area?
Tulip Bloom, The Netherlands; Ladakh, India; Annapurna, Nepal; Doc Let, Vietnam; Southern Guizhou Province, China

Most Scenic Natural Wonders?
Saguaro Ntl. Monument + Monument Valley, Arizona; Canyonlands, Utah; White Sands, New Mexico; Las Alpujaras - Granada, Spain; Spiti Valley, Nubra Valley + Aru, India; Annapurna, Nepal; Yangshuo - Guangxi, China; Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

Best Water Culture?
Tonle Sap Delta, Cambodia; Mekong Delta + Mui Ne, Vietnam; Kashmir, India

Best Biking/2-wheeled Culture?
Holland + Vietnam

Best Nightlife?
New York; Spain; Goa

Best Festival?
Las Fallas - Valencia, Spain + Queen's Day, Amsterdam; Shivaratri, India (Gokarna)

Gnarliest Festival?
Durga Puja - Nepal

Best Architecture?
Las Vegas, New Mexico; New Harmony + Columbus, Indiana; Barcelona, Bilbao, Valencia, Cuenca, Granada + Cordoba, Spain; Paris, France; Amsterdam; Agra, Rishikesh + Ladakh, India; Kathmandu Valley, Nepal; Hoi An, Vietnam; Luang Prabang, Laos

Best Ruins?
Mesa Verde, Colorado; Chaco Canyon, New Mexico; Angkor, Cambodia; Orchha, Fatehpur Sikri + Hampi, India

Best Buddhas?
Gwalior, India; Ladakh, India; Ayutthaya, Thailand

Best Place to Shop?
Bangkok's Weekend Market (for everything); Kathmandu, Nepal (for outdoor gear); Luang Prabang, Laos (for gifts + home accessories)

Best Room/Accommodation Value for your Money?
China + Vietnam; The American Southwest in Winter

Best Food for Vegetarians?
California; Yunnan, China; India (though not very healthy); Vietnam; Thailand if Self-Catering

Best Food Overall?
California (yes, maybe I'm biased) and France if you can live off of bread, cheese + wine

Best Outdoor Dining Culture?
Spain, China + Vietnam

Best Bread + Baked Goods?
France + California, followed by Nepal + Hue, Vietnam

Best Domestic Wine?
California, France + Spain, followed by, believe it our not... Yunnan, China

Best Domestic Beer?
U.S. (for microbrews that are some of THE best in the World), Vietnam (for super-cheap draft "cool beer") + Laos, which has only one beer - Beer Lao (for the COLDEST beer on a super-hot day, making the most memorable + satisfying beer-drinking experience of the trip)

Best Coffee?
Vietnam, followed by France + Spain

Best Dressed Women?
India (the Sari); Southern Vietnam (the Ao Dai); Guizhou, China (Miao tribalwear)

Best Dressed Men?
Spain (tight-fitting modern fashion); Southern China (eclectic fashion by the old men)

Worst Dressed?
Vietnam - Many women wear pajamas as clothes while men go for the white-trash look with a white wife-beater, baggy shorts, slouchy socks + plastic slippers, a big gold ring and long pinky nails to boot - Hideous!

Best Hair?
Southern China (you've never SEEN so many salon's, and the guys go for highlights + alternative cuts just as much as the girls.)

Worst Hair?
Spain (the mullet was never flattering and never WILL be, even on a woman) + Chinese (not ALL the alternative cuts are good, and they've got a things for 80's-era do's)

Best Abs?
Vietnamese + Cambodian fishermen (Even in their 50's!)

Best Arms?
Vietnamese farming women (You don't even KNOW what hard work is!)

Nicest People?
Ladakhi's, India; Southern China; Samut Songkhram, Thailand; Thakli people - Annapurna, Nepal; Khmers (Cambodia)

Most Difficult People?
Kashmiri's, then Vietnamese (though sometimes they will break your heart with sweetness too)

Least Engaging/Friendly People?
Laotians + the Spanish (it was our only disappointment with Spain)

Best smiles?
Khmer's (Cambodia), Thai's + Southern Chinese

Best place to go native?
Nepali guys have the look + the charisma to charm many a female traveler. For the guys, it's Vietnam that offers the most attractive, eligible females without the price tag (beware that most are looking for a longer term commitment than you might have in mind).

Check the "Recommendations" link for more

More INDIA Recommendations

INDIA - South + Central

MAMALLAPURAM (TAMIL NADU)
The 411 - Worth a stop if you're in the area to see the impressive temples carved out of a single rock. If given a choice, I'd see Ellora + Ajanta (Maharashtra) instead though.
Eat - The salads at Le Yogi have REAL olive oil dressing... Mmmmm.

AUROVILLE (TAMIL NADU)
The 411 - The surreal Matrimandir is only the beginning. Stay a few days to a few weeks or months and volunteer at one of the many worthwhile projects in the city. There's alot to be learned here. This also makes a fine base for exploring nearby Pondicherry.

TIRUVANNAMALAI (TAMIL NADU)
The 411 - If at all possible, make it here for the 14km Full Moon pilgrimage around the sacred mountain. Plan to arrive to day before as the time is dependant on the actual moon rise. Highly recommended!

CHIDAMBARAM (TAMIL NADU)
The 411 - This exceptionally lively temple is worth an overnight stop if en-route

FORT COCHIN (KERALA)
The 411 - This quiet, tropical scene is a world away from the rest of India. It's a comfortable place to relax with old, crumbling architecture and a lively fishing scene to keep you interested.
See - A Kathakali performance at See India in Ernakulum and take the last ferry back to Fort Cochin

CANNORE (KERALA)
The 411 - Go out of your way to see 1 or more all-night Theyyam rituals in the surrounding villages. The beaches here are decent and a nice place to rest up mid-day for your all-nighter.
Sleep - Arafa International Hotel is only 1km away from the train station and offers clean rooms at a good rate. Best of all, the very friendly manager + staff are great advisers for visiting non-touristed Theyyam rituals.

MADIKERI (KARNATAKA)
The 411 - This cool hill station is a nice break from the flatlands and a scenic place to visit coffee + spice plantations and even do short day or overnight hikes. It's also not as touristy as Kumily in Kerala.
Sleep - Honey Valley is a wonderful place, 35km from town and a great base for exploring the countryside without paying for an organized trek

MYSORE (KARNATAKA)
The 411 - This town's got charm and makes a good stopover for a few days. Check out the nice, old market (for good perfume oils + incense) and the Raj Palace. It's also a good place to do some serious yoga.
Sleep- Hotel Maurya has cheap, clean + quiet rooms and helpful management

HALEBID + BELUR (KARNATAKA)
The 411 - Some of the nicest carvings we've seen at ANY Indian temples at these little-touristed gems

SRAVANABELAGOLA (KARNATAKA)
The 411 - Worth an overnight stop to admire this hilltop temple complex with the largest monolithic stone statue in the world, and to soak up the Jain vibe of this small town

HAMPI (KARNATAKA)
The 411 - Worth many days of your time to explore the numerous temples and boulder-strewn hills of this crumbling, ancient city. It's a nice place to chill out too and most find themselves staying much longer than expected.
Sleep - The town is a good base for exploring the majority of temples (by bicycle) and there are lots of homestays. Across the river, it's less "village" and more touristy, but there's a good communal vibe going - try Manju's.
Eat - The Italian pizza joint (with blacklight posters) on the lane near the ferry crossing serves tasty pizza + pesto pasta. The German Bakery (across the river) serves reliably good food - the Greek salad, hummus + set breakfast are recommended.

BADAMI (KARNATAKA)
The 411 - Worth a night en-route to explore the scenic caves, temples + bathing ghat in the old part of town. Nice views from the top of the hill at sunset. Depending where you're going from here, nearby Bijapur also comes recommnded by savvy travelers.

GOKARNA (KARNATAKA)
The 411 - This very lovely holy town also boasts some nice beaches with very minimal development.
Sleep - We preferred Shastri's (in town) for it's large doubles with balcony. It's an easy + scenic walk to the beaches. There are also plenty of simple bungalows to stay in on the sand if you want to get away from it all.

GOA
The 411 - Say what you will about Goa, but people have been coming here for 40 years for a reason! We've heard it's a bit packed over the holidays, but found Feb./March to be just about perfect in all respects. A nice variety of unique + beautiful beaches all accessible via moto driving through scenic countryside + villages. I recommend checking out everything from Anjuna to Querim. Development in most is still limited to thatched shacks. The added bonus is that you can also boogie down with cool people at numerous parties about town(s).
Sleep - It depends what you want. Arambol's a bit developed, but good for meeting other travelers. Asvem/Morjim are good for getting away from it all and staying right at the beach. Chapora is a well-located village scene and good for hanging in the non-dancing evenings.

MUMBAI (MAHARASHTRA)
The 411 - The cultural capital of this vast country is a little slice of London mixed with modern India. Not nearly as dirty or crazy as anything we saw in Delhi. It's an easy + easy to like stop.
Sleep - Prices are the highest here in all of India. Expect to pay $15 for the cheapest double.

AURANGABAD (MAHARASHTRA)
The 411 - Both the Ellora + Ajanta Caves are very impressive and unique, so see them both, but take your time to savor the details and don't cram them in to a single day. The nearby, and dramatically sited, Daulatabad Fort also makes a good 3-4 hour stop before taking the night bus to your next destination.
Eat - Tirupati (near the train station) makes Indian food a tasty notch above the usual. Worth going back to again + again.

PATAN (GUJARAT)
The 411 - It doesn't look like much at first glance, but this dusty town offers architectural gems hidden down back lanes, a one-of-a-kind silk weaving operation + an amazingly preserved step well.

JODHPUR (RAJASTHAN)
The 411 - Dramatically sited Fort + Blue City. I recommend the free audio tour when exploring the Fort/Palace complex. Great for a few days of wandering, and not nearly as touristy as some other cities in the state.
Sleep - Sunrise Guesthouse is a great value for your money - friendly, well located + lots of charm.

JAISALMER (RAJASTHAN)
The 411 - Lots of crumbling, beautifully detailed, sandstone havelis about town. The inside of the walled city would be a more interesting living museum if it weren't so full of shops. Still, it's got enough character to make my recommendations list.
See - An overnight trip to the nearby village of Khuri with a night spent in the dunes is magical and not too bad on the butt.
Sleep - Outside the Fort walls to help preservation + for a less-touristy vibe
Buy - There's a good selection of stuff here at good prices and with less hassle than Jaipur

AJMER (RAJASTHAN)
The 411 - Worth a stop to break a long haul. It has almost none of nearby Pushkar's tourist flow, but is an interesting place to explore. The old town, Dargah shrine + Bazaar leading up to it are unique + colorful. Also, be sure to check out the Jain golden model.

CHITTOR (RAJASTHAN)
The 411 - An unexpected surprise. This very impressive Fort complex is dramatically sited and worth a day or two exploring by foot. It's a chill + scenic escape from the bustle of town below, though none of it is touristy. The people are also a delight.

BUNDI (RAJASTHAN)
The 411 - Another town of crumbling ruins. The Palace looming above town (great murals) + view from the Fort above at sunset make it well worth the stop. It's pretty + chill enough that you may find yourself staying longer.
Sleep - Kasera Paradise has beautiful rooms (half price in off-season) + a killer rooftop restaurant with views. The food isn't bad either, though the staff are a bit surly.

RANTHAMBORE (RAJASTHAN)
The 411 - Touted as one of the best places in India to see a Bengal tiger. I saw one. Cantor vs. jeep doesn't matter when it comes to rowdiness of your co-riders as all the vehicles tend to converge on the same spot anyway. Still, it was a worthwhile experience. There are lots of deer, peacocks + exotic birds and beautiful landscape too.

JAIPUR (RAJASTHAN)
The 411 - One of the handful of places of the entire trip I'd recommend skipping. The sites aren't all that and the people are some of the most pushy and bothersome (for women especially) I've dealt with anywhere.


RECOMMENDED ITINERARY-
Give it as much time as you can and don't try to cover too much ground or you'll run yourself ragged. For 2-3 weeks I'd pick ONE region and stick to it or try these suggestions -
Route 1 - Fly into Mumbai and spend a day getting acclimatised. A worthy loop includes the must-see Ellora + Ajanta caves (2-3 days) + Hampi (3-5 days), possibly going through Bijapur en-route (2-3 days). Then back west to Gokarna (3-5 days), and Goa (5-7 days) before returning on a night bus or flying to Mumbai (1 day).
Route 2 - Fly into Delhi (1-3 days), before heading to Agra + Fatehpur Sikri (1-2 days), then to Rajasthan (10-16 days) for the remainder. I've listed some of my favorites above.

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $5-10/2p
Meal - .50-$2/pp
Tea - .15 - .25
Beer - $1
Moto/Bicycle - $4-5/day
Visa - $60/ 6 months ($40 non-U.S. citizens)

Visa Info
Must be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. The standard issue is for a 6-month Tourist Visa, but U.S. citizens can also apply for a 10-YEAR Visa. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
You'll get the most bang for your travel buck here. Unforgetable + unimaginable images and experiences are what it's all about. It's places where you're challenged that tend to offer you up so many enriching gifts in return. Definitely try to hit at least one festival or pilgrimage spot.

What's Not?
The difficulty of traveling around, the masses of humanity, being stared at, the grime + smells.

Will you Starve to Death?
Indian cuisine is a god-send for vegetarians as many Hindus observe this themselves. Even many meat-eaters prefer to forego meat while here as hygeine is sub-standard. That said, the food that's served here is not nearly as varied in flavor as what we get in U.S. Indian restaurants, so you'll soon be begging for a change. Everything here is greasy + very spicy or greasy + uber-sweet. Don't get your hopes up restaurants that claim to do pizza + pasta as most have NO idea. The spinach-mushroom burgers with fries are usually decent though. Buy your own curd or milk and add fruit + packaged Badam (spiced almond) powder for a refreshing change. Fresh veg salads (bought + washed yourself) with cubed paneer (cheese) or pakoras (fried veggies) with salt + lime also make refreshingly tasty meals. And resign yourself to chai (milk tea) only (unless you're a Nescafe fan), just order it without sugar.

Will you Dig It?
India's not for the faint at heart and you have to be willing to get out of your comfort zone + challenge yourself. If your game though, it'll offer you experiences you'll remember for a lifetime.

Books to Read -
The big cities + tourist hot spots have good + cheap second-hand bookshops. Many trade on a 2 for 1 basis, so bring a few with you to trade along the way. A fun + interesting satiric history that I highly recommend is The Great Indian Novel by Shashi Tharoor. The Spice Route: A History by John Keay is great read while traveling through Kerala. A Passage to India by E.M. Forster is a classic. The Elephanta Suite or The Great Railway Bazaar by Paul Theroux are both entertaining reads, as is Delhi: A Novel by Kushwant Singh. Other very good books to trade for when you're here are God of Small Things* by Arundhati Roy, The Life of Pi by Yann Martel, Karma Cola by Gita Mehta, Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts + A Fine Balance* by Rohinton Mistry (all easily available). There's also a broad selection of self-help books or others dealing with yoga + anything spiritual.

Check the "link" for photos from India

CAMBODIA Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

CAMBODIA

SIHANOUKVILLE
The 411 - The beaches here are pretty good (Otres in the best of them), but this is THE party beach scene. Evenings going from beach bar to bar and dancing the night away are memorable though the music more miss than hit. Still, it's a good time and we ended up spending more time then we expected here (a common problem for visitors).
Sleep - Town is very spread out so I highly recommend renting a moto ($6) to get around. Victory Hill is a nice escape from the main beach scene and has a bit more funk factor + decent beach, though it's now turning in to a "girlie bar" scene. Try Sunset Garden View or Sakal for cheap($6), quiet + clean rooms. (There's a cool outdoor cinema right down the hill too). If you want a quiet getaway, there are a few very basic beach bungalows way down on Otres Beach, right on the beach for $10/night. Also, with your own wheels, Geckozy + Zen Garden are both cheap($4-5), chill scenes in a quiet neighborhood in downtown. You can also find quiet accomodations walking distance to Ochheuteal at Rega ($8-14) for convenient late-night parting.
Eat - Coffee (.25) + breakfast ($1) at Na Na on Victory Hill is the best deal around. Also a great deal on Victory to get your homemade pasta fix is La Tratorria. Marco Polo (by the Golden Lions) is good for Italian, especially pizzas, too.
Buy - Bring an I-Pod or portable hard drive with plenty of free space to load up with lots of new music at the Boom Boom Room. They have a hefty catalog to browse through and albums go for .75 - $1.25, depending on quantity. They also have locations in PP + Siem Reap.

KAMPOT
The 411 - This dusty outpost is a good base for day trips into the countryside. Rent a moto and cruise around, but DEFINITELY head up to Bokor and spend the night. It's a hell of a 2 hr. cruise each way, but both sunset + sunrise from the top and exploration of the ruins of a French casino make it well worth your while.

PHNOM PENH
The 411 - People seem to love it or hate it, but if nightlife and the out of the ordinary are up your alley then it's worth a few (or several) days, and nights. The markets (esp. Orussey + Central) + Mekong waterfront are worth some time strolling too.
Sleep - Spring Guesthouse (near the Orussey Market) or The Last Home or Royal Guesthouse (between the Central Market + Riverside) are all clean and conveniently located in their own respective + interesting neighborhoods. Some people prefer to stay at Lakeside (but that's a bit of an isolated tourist ghetto) or right on the Riverside (which is a little loud and doesn't have as much local character), but we prefer the others for a more "Cambodian" feel and better value for your money.
Eat - Kandal House (Sisowath Quay) serves up tasty pizza + pasta, Cantina (Sisowath Quay) for the best mexican food we've found in southeast asia + Dragon Guesthouse (Orussey Market area) has a laid-back terrace, entertaining owner and serves up delicious tofu amok (ask for it).
Drink - The FCC for sunset beers, Pontoon for dancing with a view, Elsewhere for first-Friday parties, or Heart of Darkness for late-night weirdness.

SIEM REAP
The 411 - No visit to Cambodia is complete without a trip to Angkor. HIGHLY recommended is arriving via the slow boat (8 hr.) from Battambang. Wear sunscreen!
Angkor - I'm sure that not many people like temples the way we do, and you CAN get templed out here. Regardless, buy the week pass so you can take your time and enjoy. Try not to cram in more than 2 or 3 a day or it's all going to begin looking the same. Bicycling is the perfect mode of transport for slow exploration and a nice way to reflect on what you've just seen before hitting the next one.
Eat - The almond croissants at Blue Pumpkin are especially tasty with a cup of strong, local coffee. Try the food stalls along the outside of the market for a cheap + tasty dinner.

KAMPONG CHHNANG
The 411 - Definitely worth a day or two exploring the southern end of the Tonle Sap. Take a late afternoon boat ride, local style, through floating villages for a great glimpse of a unique way of life.

KAMPONG CHAM
The 411 - Definitely worth a day or two for exploring by bicycle. Go after the rainy season to check out the amazing bamboo bridge (quite possibly the longest in the world).


SUGGESTED 2-3 WEEK ITINERARY
You'll probably book your flight from home to Bangkok as it's the cheapest option. Book a connecting, cheap flight to Phnom Penh at http://www.airasia.com/ Spend a few days in PP (2-4 days) checking out the markets, back streets, National Museum, Khmer Rouge history + riverside area. Bus to Battambang (1 night), then boat cruise to Siem Reap (1 day). Spend the next few days (3-7 days) checking out Angkor by bike. Try not to squeeze in more than 2 big temples in a day, with some other minor ones. Bus back to PP, then Sihanoukville (2-4 days) for some beachtime relaxation (could also head out to Koh Roo island) + partying before heading home. With a couple more days you could check out one or more of the following smaller towns with character - Kampot and spend the night up at Bokor hill station, Kampong Cham or Kampong Chhnang - before heading home out of PP.

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $4-8/2p
Meal - $1-5/pp
Coffee - .25 - .50
Beer - .50 - .75
Moto/Bicycle - $3-4/$1
Visa - $25-30/ 30 Day

Visa Info
May be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. A 30-day Tourist Visa-On-Arrival can be obtained at the airports in Phnom Penh or Siem Reap for the same cost. Once in country, visas can be extended only once for 30 days through a travel agent for $30-40. If you're planning on staying a bit longer, get a 30-day Business Visa from the embassy in Bangkok or HCMC. This can be extended once you're there for 3, 6 or 12-month intervals. Note that a Tourist Visa can not be extended past 30-days, only a Business Visa. The 12-month costs around $300. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
The people, Angkor + general "Anything goes!" attitude.

What's Not?
Human devastation from landmines + bombs, moto-dup drivers and garbage.

Will you Starve to Death?
We had a bit more luck with vegetarian savory foods here than neighboring Thailand. Try the fried rice cakes filled with spicy greens from the markets. There's more Chinese influence and chowmein + dishes like Ma Po Tofu are available. Fish eaters will be in seventh-heaven with amok, the national dish. Banana pancakes + omelettes rein for breakfast fare, and good coffee + tea are available. Fruit shakes (especially durian or jackfruit) make the perfect dessert or afternoon refresher.

Will you Dig It?
Most people like it. Come for the ruins, but stay for the people.

Books to Read
Cambodia is a great place to buy photocopied guidebooks + novels for cheap. A couple worth picking up are First they killed my Father by Loung Ung and Cambodia Now by Karen Coates.

Check the "link" for photos from Cambodia

Travel Tips for India + Southeast Asia

While I certainly don't consider myself an "authority" on the subject, eleven months of travel in India, three in Nepal, and thirteen months in Southeast Asia have certainly given me some valuable tips worth passing along...


BEFORE YOU LEAVE HOME
Go electronic! This means automatic bill-pay, Skype for phone calls, open a Paypal or Paytrust account for all other transactions. Use these accounts before you leave to ensure that they work effectively for you. Notify all credit cards + your bank that you will be traveling, for how long + to what countries. Failure to do this may result in "suspect" transactions and having your account frozen at inopportune times. Ask a VERY close + reliable friend or family member to go through your mail for you. There are BOUND to be items coming through that demand immediate attention - tax notices, jury duty, license renewals, etc. Depending on how long you'll be gone, it may be worth it to have your mail forwarded to a P.O. Box for a reasonable rate. Also, visit the CDC to determine what vaccinations + meds you'll need for where you're going. This is NOT something to screw around with as many things you can catch on the road are grim to life-threatening. Visit your local travelers clinic for the most accurate and up-to-date coverage. And another thing, if you ARE leaving for awhile, either discontinue services or request minimal options for your utilities, cell plan + gym membership.

COSTS
About the absolute minimum you can get away with (excluding airfare and at-home costs for storage space, P.O. Box, monthly bills, etc.) is around $10-15 per person/per day. This allows for very basic accommodations, meals, bus/train travel only and a do-it-yourself approach to tours and just about everything. The mid-upper end of this would look more like $50 per person / per day and allow for tours, travel insurance, internal flights and a fair amount more pampering.

HEALTH + TRAVEL INSURANCE
We originally started out the trip with basic coverage for emergency only use with a $2,500 deductible and coverage anywhere in the world, excluding the U.S. Per person costs on this range from $800-1,200 per person depending on your age and the carrier. To include coverage in the U.S. prices double. Some of the decision to cover or not depends on where you go. If you'll be in the Himalayas and might need air medivac, then get it. If you'll be in countries like India + Thailand with above-average to very-good care at low prices, you may want to roll the dice and pay out-of-pocket. On this trip, I decided to take the plunge and get Lasik vision correction. Prices quoted to me at home totalled approx. $5,000. Instead, a did some homework online and went to a fantastic western-trained doctor in New Delhi, India who's performed over 10,000 sugeries and did mine for only $600! Also, do your homework whenever you're given a prescription abroad as I've been given meds that were totally inappropriate for my condition.

VISAS
You can research all you like, visit consulates directly, check Lonely Planet's " Thorntree" site, but only what happens AT the border really counts. India visas must be obtained in advance. U.S. citizens can get a single or multiple-entry 6-months (specify on application) or 10-year multiple-entry visa. Nepal visas of 60-days are easily obtained at the border. Thailand is easy - Visa on arrival in most cases and no B.S. Vietnam you MUST get beforehand and it's the same price to request a 3-month business visa as to get the standard 30-day + a 2-week extension. Laos now issues a visa on arrival, but some border crossings will charge an extra fee depending on the day of the week and there's really no getting around it. Cambodia also gives visa on arrival but you'd really be best to get it in advance as border guards are corrupt and will adjust the laws to their benefit to extract as much extra as they think they can out of you. China visas MUST be acquired beforehand and you should fight your case at the time for longer periods of 60-90 days for the same cost if you think you might want it. If you're getting visas while in Southeast Asia you may want to consider going through a travel agent, specifically in Bangkok, as travel to + from the consulate can eat up alot of time and cost as much as the small fee they tack on for processing. At the border, you should be prepared to pay with U.S. dollars only in most cases, and with passport-sized photos.

TRANSPORT
Typical fares for regular buses are $1/hr., though China is more, and India is less. Overnight buses are also available in many countries for a slight premium. Where trains are available they offer a more memorable ride, though usually slower. The overnight trains in China, even second class, are a sweet deal. In city or short-distance travel by tuk-tuk, moto, rickshaw or songthaew is usually highly negotiable. It's usually best to ask a local what they pay before negotiating and act like you know what you're doing. Always allow the entire day to get from one city to another if it's a 5 hour or longer trip as delays are not uncommon, buses break down, there are more eating/bathroom stops than you would ever imagine, finding rooms in the next town is never as simple as you would hope, etc. If you try to fit in a few sights that day on top of it all you're likely to be more stressed-out on your vacation than you'd like. The pace of life is s-l-o-w here, so go with the flow. Bring a book or I-pod (sometimes essential for drowning out the horrible music on buses) for those long journeys and relax. Also, I really don't recommend flying once you're here unless you HAVE to, because you miss so much. But if you do, check out Air Asia for super-cheap flights between a few major cities in Southeast Asia.

ACCOMMODATIONS
We NEVER book anything in advance and have NEVER had a problem. (Well, only once during a MAJOR festival, and even THAT worked out great!) You usually pay less when you just show up too. Never be shy about asking if they've got anything cheaper either as many places will give you an discount just for asking. We most always look around at 2 or 3 just for comparison as what you get for your money varies dramatically. All the recommendations we've bothered to mention are on the rock-bottom end of the budget, but are are clean, give you more for your money than others in the range and usually have character.

FOOD
Trying local cuisine is part of the great traveling adventure. Sure, you can play it safe and probably never get sick by eating in establishments that cater solely to foreigners, but what's the fun in that! We almost solely eat at food carts, sidewalk eateries and places catering to locals. There is rarely a menu, and if there is it's usually not in English (India is the exception), but never fear - Arm yourself with a phrase book and point at what you want. We're even picky vegetarians and we've made it work for us. Yes, we've gotten meat on a couple occasions, but it's cheap and you can just order something else if they don't immediately take it back and do it right. Usually THEY'RE the one that's embarrassed at the mistake. Eating with the locals is invariably a fun and interesting experience. By the way, we've hardly EVER gotten sick either, so put your fears behind you and dive in!

WATER
This is most likely the main culprit of G.I. problems. Buy bottled water, or even better, buy a Steripen and treat your own (saving LOTS of plastic!) For whatever reason, ice hasn't seemed to be a problem anywhere (except in India) and even locals that drink bottled water seem to have no qualms about drinking other beverages over ice. Another plastic-free and refreshing drink easily available in Southeast Asia is iced tea (sometimes listed as weak Chinese tea). Keep your eyes open for it.

TIME
Remember that you're out here to check out other cultures and have a good time. The best way to do this is to TAKE YOUR TIME. Hoping on a plane gets you there quickly, but if at ALL possible, we've found it so much more memorable to travel overland. Locals travel this way and you'll meet many of them doing it local-style. This means no "tourist" buses either (although I WOULD splurge if you're doing an overnighter). Also, stay a few days in each place, even if you don't think there are so many "sights", to get a feel for it. Moving around to a ton of different places in a short period will only give you the briefest glimpse of what a place is about, and much of the real meat of a given place is simply in being present and observing. Walk, a lot.

INTERNET + PHONE
Available EVERYWHERE and cheap at approx. .50 cents/hour. Connection speeds vary, cafe opening + closing hours vary, access to Acrobat Reader + Skype web-phone, whether you can upload photos and/or view certain sites like Blogger (the later not in Vietnam) varies, but overall it's no problem and rest assured you'll be in touch with the outside world. Security can be the biggest concern here as you're always using a different computer and some have viruses and key-logging software that can steal your passwords. Look into this beforehand if you're concerned. There are free + paid options for backing-up Blogger too. You can use any cell phone with removeable sim card in most countries. Local sim cards bought in each country give you a convenient way to make local calls + connect with other travelers you've met. We didn't do this, but met many people who did.

PHOTOS
Many internet cafe's also burn photos from memory card onto CD or DVD. Most have readers too, but bringing your own doesn't hurt. This is a nice, compact one. I wouldn't recommend traveling with a laptop merely for photos as it's heavy and more tempting to steal than CD's. We mail ours home every several months after we've burned a couple dozen. Also, there are lots of compact, portable hard drives on the market now, and though it's stealable, it might be a good solution for you. For film, color processing is available in most larger cities, but black + white is much harder to find.

MONEY
ATM's are most everywhere and disperse money in local currency - Super convenient + easy. Travelers checks are a thing of the past. Credit cards are widely accepted for fancy hotels + shops, but typically charge 5% for purchases. And speaking of money, theft is not such a problem in this region, but you should always keep your money in a safe place (preferably in a few different safe places among your body and bags), especially in a crowded market scene.

CLOTHING
Check the weather where you're going - Wunderground is a good one. It's toasty all year in many places (except China+ India vary dramatically) and you need only bring a lightweight jacket to be safe. All the young people in Southeast Asia wear jeans, but I personally find them a bit heavy and they take too long to drip dry. Most men wear long pants and collared shirts, but long shorts and T's are usually acceptable for guys. Clothing for women varies pretty dramatically. I personally feel it's better to err on the conservative side so you don't offend anyone. Tribal areas in particular, and Laos + India, are definitely conservative (meaning no skimpy tanks or short shorts). Otherwise, anything closer to knee-length or longer for pants or skirts is fine, and no midriff-baring tops. Tight is generally o.k. in Southeast Asia, but I wouldn't recommend it in India unless you don't mind gawking + groping. In India I find it very handy to drape a scarf/shawl across my chest + arms like the local women. In all the capital cities you can get away with more. At Thai or Goan beaches bikini's are cool, but be forewarned that in most other areas local women swim in shorts + T's, so you'll definitely get stares. All clothes are best in lightweight, breathable fabrics. And don't worry if what you've brought doesn't feel right once you arrive as you can buy lots of new stuff cheap here. With this in mind, also pack light.

BOOKS
An essential is your guide book. It's your starting point for deciding where to go + how to get there. Almost 90% of people these days seem to use the Lonely Planet, which is good and has better maps + logistics info than others. Other good ones are Foorprint + Rough Guide. Getting a non-LP book may lead you to less-touristed locales. If you plan to go to more than one country, wait until you're abroad and then trade your existing guidebook in for a new one to save on weight. Same with pleasure reading. Bring 1-2 and trade them in when you're finished. Lots of cheap, used bookstores can be found in all the major tourist cities.

WHAT TO PACK (Clothes)

2-3 short-sleeve shirts

1-2 long sleeve shirts

1 lightweight jacket

2-3 pairs pants

1-2 skirts

4-5 pairs socks + underwear

1 pair everyday shoes for walking/hiking

1 pair flip-flops

1 swimsuit

WHAT TO PACK (The Extra Essentials)

Digital camera + several gigs of memory

Leatherman knife/utility tool - comes in much more handy than you'd think

Umbrella - for rain or shine

Large Zip-lock bags - to compact your clothes + keep them dry

Sarong - makes an amazing all-purpose towel, sheet, skirt, and/or a

Sleep Sheet - to shield you from the gnarly, unwashed sheets that are oh-so-common in budget rooms

Pack Cover - to protect it from dirt + damage on those trains + buses

Good earplugs - the developing world seems to never sleep

Strong Padlock - extra security for locking your room door or rented bike/moto

Rope - good for making a laundry line, tying your pack on bus rooftop luggage rack

Steripen - to provide 5,000 liters of safe drinking water and minimize plastic waste

Rechargable batteries + charger - another save-the-planet tip

Watch with alarm - so you don't miss that bus or train

Headlamp - power outs are not uncommon

Small duct tape - fixes any hole

Small sewing kit for repairs

First-aid kit - Good to carry though you can buy most everything here for cheaper

DEET - for mosquitoes (hard to find abroad)

I-pod + travel speakers - great for a long bus/train ride + to drown out the honking

Journal - you will never remember all the glorious details otherwise

VIETNAM - North Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

VIETNAM - North

HANOI
The 411 - A bustling capital city bursting with energy + noise. The winding lanes of the Old Quarter and surrounds allow for endless exploration + people watching. Dorothy, you aren't in Kansas anymore!
Sleep - The "Old Quarter" is a good base for exploration and has a nice vibe. Here are a few places we found that give you a good bargain for less cash than most @ $8/2p with A/C, Frig + Bathroom - Prince III (65 Hang Cot) + Hai Anh Plaza Hotel (30 Hang Cot) and are out of the main tourist hubub.
Drink - Don't leave town without taking advantage of the Bia Hoi, available on many corners in the Old Quarter for 12-24 cents a glass. They serve up decent + cheap food too. Try the sauteed bamboo shoots or morning glories with garlic. Also, around midnight when all the curbside places have closed, head on over to The Lighthouse - Cool vibe, good tunes + killer riverside location make this a great weekend destination.

HALONG CITY (HON GAI)
The 411 - Skip the tourist scene in Bai Chay for the more authentic one next door. You can easily spend a couple days to a week exploring this industrial port city complete with fish market and a bay full of karsts. Make sure to head up to the top of the one looming over town for unbelievable sunset views (look for the flag + ask directions to the stairs leading up).
Sleep - Check out the string of Ngha Nghi's (Guesthouses) lining the street at the east end of the market, right off the waterfront. Cheap rates, nice digs + AMAZING views.

BAI TU LONG BAY
The 411 - There is a daily ferry from Hon Gai to the island of Quan Lan (5 hrs.) where you can easily lose yourself in the mellow, island rhythm. Vacant, white-sand beaches are easily accessed by bike or moto and the locals are super-friendly. This is a great pick for couples or loners wanting to get away from it all. There are a few guesthouse options in town, and we recommend Link for it's family atmosphere + little balcony overlooking the sea. From Quan Lan it's a short ferry (3 hrs.) to Van Don island (Cai Rong Pier), a scenic fishing port just off the mainland. Have one of the local ladies row you out to the karst in the bay at sunset and climb to the top.

NINH BINH
The 411 - A nice stop only a couple hours south of Hanoi. Scenic area of karsts set amidst rice paddies and small villages makes for several great days exploring by moto. Be sure to take the 20k back road from Tam Coc and stop for a climb up to the pagoda on the hill (you'll see it) for killer views.
Sleep - Queen Mini has clean rooms that are walkable to the best stuff in town AND they rent motos.
Eat - Evenings at the string of Bia Hoi stalls on the waterside is the place to be for 15 cent drafts. The patio restaurant at the hotel across the street serves up tasty food for reasonable prices too if you bargain.

DONG HOI
The 411 - Not a bad stop on the north-south route, but not worth stopping in and of itself. If you DO find yourself here there are huge expanses of beach both north + south of town worth spending the day at, and the "Dry" cave at Phang Nga is quite impressive.
Sleep - Mau Hong Hotel is friendly, located on the scenic river + rents motos.
Eat - We are officially out of the land of cold beer and have only been able to scout out a handful of Bia Hoi (draft beer) stalls for the ONLY thing that's not served over ice. Maybe our livers will thank us later.

HUE (We're back!)
The 411 - Lots more tourists now (July) than there were here before (February), but it's still a nice, relatively chill city with a healthy life of it's own outside of tourism. It's like an overgrown village with a park-like setting. The countryside around here is picturesque, dotted with the tombs of old emperors, rice paddies, shrimp farms + villages, all of which are easily explored by bicycle or moto. If you want to get a little farther afield, the ocean is only a short ride away though the beaches aren't the most pristine. We spent 3-1/2 weeks here and STILL hated to leave.
Sleep - Khuyen Ngoc Guesthouse (28/42 Nguyen Cong Tru) is hidden on an alley near the tourist hood and has a very neighborhoody vibe. Good value for your money too.
Eat - Enzo's New York Pizza makes authentic Italian ciabatta + pizzas - No longer here :( Cho Dong Ba has proven to be THE market to end all. Even after 8 months in Southeast Asia, this STILL has the best selection of tropicals fruits + produce, pickled veggies + other local condiments, fresh noodles, and vegetarian (chay) fake meat products to be found. All at low prices. A tip for vegetarians - By self catering with fake-meats from the Com Chay ladies (try the one that looks like stuffing with lemongrass), fresh rice noodles + tasty produce, you'll eat better than ANYTHING you can find in a restaurant - Guaranteed.


SUGGESTED 2-3 WEEK ITINERARY
The country is too big + interesting to tackle in one shot, much better is to break it in half. Here's our recommendation for the North - Fly in to Hanoi (2-4 days) checking out the City. Bus to Hon Gai (2-4 days) for a glimpse of the commercial fishing scene and spectacular Ha Long Bay views. Book a day tour of the Bay if so inclined, or continue off the the tourist trail by local ferry to Quan Lan Island for several days of quiet village life and playing on deserted, white-sand beaches (3-6 days). Onwards by local ferry to Van Don island to check out the picturesque scene at Cai Rong Pier (1-2 days), before returning by bus to Hon Gai and continuing to Hanoi. Time permitting, a couple days cruising by moto around Ninh Binh or a trip up to SaPa would be memorable. Hue is also recommended, but you'd have to have time for an overnight train (16 hours each way). Remember to allow a half to a full day for transport between each city. See "Vietnam - South" for more...

APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Note: Here more than anywhere, all prices are highly negotiable. It is not uncommon for foreigners to be charged 2-3 times the normal price for any + everything. Prices listed reflect hard bargaining and are about as cheap as you can possibly get by here. If you haven't been paying attention, global tourism is on a HUGE rise now, and Vietnam's economy is the second fastest in the world. As a result, we've seen dramatic changes in just a few months time of businesses coming + going and prices rising, so this information is likely to be soon outdated.
Room - $4-10/2p (One of best values for your money of any country I've visited)
Meal - $2-4/pp
Coffee - .25 - .50
Beer - .12 - .50
Moto/Bicycle - $3-5/.60
Visa - $35/ 30 Day + $25 for U.S. citizens

Visa Info
Must be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. The standard issue is for a 30-day Tourist Visa, but you can also request a 90-day Business Visa in advance for the cost of a 30-day + 2 week extension. Once in country 2 week to 1 month extensions are easily available in HCMC, Dalat, Hue, Hoi An, Danang + Hanoi. A maximum stay of 90 stays is possible at which time you must exit + re-enter the country. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
The feeling of stepping back in time, beautiful scenery, fantastic produce markets, moto/bicycle culture, THE best coffee + people interaction.

What's Not?
Less-than-pristine coastline, more difficult language + people interaction (they're a mixed bag). Be prepared to bargain for everything.

Will you Starve to Death?
A big surprise is that this is a VERY easy country for vegetarians as many people here follow Buddhist principles of vegetarianism twice a month. This means that there are specific veggie restaurants in every town and we never had a problem finding them with the magic words "Doy un chay". As an added bonus, if you're willing to self-cater, you can buy a myriad variety of fixings for salads from the markets, including - cooked rice noodles, pickled + raw, pre-shredded veggies, multiple varieties of tofu + delicious soy or gluten meats (including salmon + chicken), etc. Chowmein, burgers, pasta + pizza appear on many menus and it's sometimes quite good. Look before ordering. Vietnamese sandwiches with pate or cheese + veg on baguette are available on almost any street corner, as is grilled chicken or fish on a stick. Pho (noodle soup) is the traditional breakfast, but you can hit the street carts the evening prior for tasty sesame, donut-like pastries or coconut tarts to go with your morning cup of nectar. The coffee here may take a long time to drip, and the portions are small, but it's not your typical cup of coffee. Do yourself a favor and try it black (Cafe Dam), without milk, sugar or ice. Sip + savor!

Will you Dig It?
Another love or hate. Once you get past the fact that you need to learn your numbers and bargain for everything there's alot to love. Not recommended for a first-timer, but not SO difficult if you're game for an adventure. Alot of exotic bang for your buck. Even after 4 months it continues to surprise + enchant us. I personally put this one on my "Places I could live" list.

Books to Read
There are not so many places to trade books here, so your best to bring them with you if you're not stopping in Bangkok or Phnom Penh first. Dispatches by Micheal Herr is a fantastic Vietnam War read (even for chicks), as is The Girl in the Picture by Denise Chong. On the lighter side, A Cooks Tour by Anthony Bourdain + The Book of Salt by Monique Truong deal with Vietnam from a gourmand's perspective.

Check the "link" for photos from Vietnam

CHINA - Guangxi Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

CHINA - Guangxi Province

CHENGYANG
The 411 - Another little-touristed village (actually a grouping of seven different villages) in an idyllic setting with rice paddies + old bridges. We've also had recommended the trek from Chengyang to Zhaoxing in Guizhou through beautiful countryside + doing homestays in small Dong minority villages.
Sleep - Yang's Guesthouse is just across the bridge and owned by a friendly local (Yang) who can answer your questions about the area.
Eat - There's one stir-fry house on the river by the bridge at the northern edge of town. The cheapest prices around and you can enjoy a sound + light show of the most natural sorts.

YANGSHUO
The 411 - A very touristy scene (of both Westerners + Chinese), but it's a necessary base for exploring the surrounding karsts.
See - Highlights of this area, if you've got the inclination for a little adventure + getting off-the-beaten-path, include biking through the surrounding karsts. Ride #1 - Head south to the Yulong Jiang (River) and take a right (west) on the dirt road right before the bridge. Follow the river until the road ends. Take a bamboo raft (5 yuan) to cross and continue biking along the river to reach the old Dragon Bridge. From here, you have the option to raft back down the river (130-150 yuan) if you're out of steam or keep biking and return via Jinbao town to Gaotian if time allows and you have the energy. Ride #2 - Head east to Fuli on Market Day (every 3 days) and explore before taking the ferry (5 yuan) across to Dutou village. Continue on to Liugong village and continue following the dirt road south + west to Lexiang and back to the main Yangshuo-Gaotian road to return home.
Eat - The food is only o.k., but you've at least once got to dine at the outdoor "Night Market". You won't believe your eyes, or ears.

XINGPING
The 411 - Much less touristy than Yangshuo, this would be a more relaxing base for further exploration.
See - For a REAL adventure set out on a multi-day bike trip from Yangshuo to Xingping (Note: You will need to ask for directions to each progressive village at every intersection as there are no signs). Ride #3 - Begin by heading north to Bajiaolin village, then Guban, continuing towards Daping. Keep staying right at the forks in the road and you'll eventually be high up on a ridge with views of the valley below. At the fork where the road begins to descend, stay right and you'll soon come across Mr. Zhao's Guesthouse, signed only in Chinese + the first accomodation you'll encounter on this route in Bao Shan village. (Note: It's approx. 7-8 hours to this point, 27 Km) Staying here is a memorable experience and Mr. Zhao will eagerly offer to take you to a viewpoint (10 yuan/p.p.) that is well worth the money. When you're feeling ready to move on continue down the road to the river (near "9 Horse" formation). Take the ferry across the Li Jiang (4 yuan) and continue along the river to Xingping. (Note: It's approx. 1-1/2 hours to this point). If you've got time it would be worth staying a night or two here too for more rides via bike or boat to check out the landscape, or you can continue back to Yangshuo via the road to Fuli. (Note: Approx. 2 hours, 24 Km)

2-3 WEEK ITINERARY
Your cheapest + quickest bet would be to fly to Hong Kong and catch a connecting flight to Guiyang (Guizhou province). Head out by bus to Xijiang (3-5 days), Congjiang area (1 day), then Zhaoxing (2 days) for a taste of village life. Time permitting, continue on into the Guangxi province and get your fill of bridges in the Chengyang area (2 days), before heading on to the Yangshuo area (3-6 days) and it's stunning karst landscape. Take a bus to Guilin where you can catch a flight back to Hong Kong. Obviously plan for at least a couple days in Hong Kong itself.


APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $3-5/2p (One of the best values for your money of any country I've visited)
Meal - $1-2/pp
Tea - Frequently free
Beer - .50
Visa - $55/ 30-60 Day

Visa Info
Must be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. Lengths of stay must be negotiated at time of application. 60-Day is commonly given if applying from home, while anywhere from 30-180 days must be requested when applying at the embassy in a neighboring country. Once in country visas can be extended in several cities for an additional 3o-days for $25-30. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
Guangxi province is all about karsts - And in abundance. You've never seen anything like this!

What's Not?
This area has sold itself to tourism years ago so don't expect to have it all to yourself. Avoid Yangshuo on the weekend if you don't want crowds as the Chinese flock here in droves as a weekend "party" get-away.

Will you Starve to Death?
As with the other southern provinces, you've got stir-fry houses galore. Yangshuo has lots of restaurants that CLAIM to serve good western fare, though we never tried. Dumpling houses are a nice change from the usual and all offer veggie-filled.

Will you Dig It?
If you've ever longed for that magical landscape of China you've doubtless seen reproduced in watercolor on scrolls - Rivers flowing through karsts + men catching fish on boats with lanterns hung from poles - Then you'll be in seventh heaven.

Books to Read
We didn't see any second-hand bookstores that I recall, so it's best to bring your own. Here are two that are both entertaining + informative - The River at the Center of the World by Simon Winchester, Riding the Iron Rooster by Paul Theroux.

Check the "link" for photos from China

CHINA - Guizhou Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

CHINA - Guizhou Province

XIJIANG
The 411 - This is 21st century village life in all it's glory. You've got a few modern conveniences like electricity + internet, but for the most part it's "Old School" and virtually no tourists - A real hidden gem. We spent a week here hanging about town + hiking in the terraced countryside. Beautiful!
Sleep - Leslie's Guesthouse has cheap rooms in a traditional-style home.
Eat - There are just enough options here to feed your belly with a little diversity. The stir-fry house near internet is the best of the lot. Would recommend bringing a stockpile of fresh fruit with you if you're planning to stay awhile.

CONGJIANG
The 411 - This is only an o.k. city, but it's a good base for heading into surounding villages where the locals still dress to the hilt. We went through Shahjiang (one hour north) on the bus on their market day. This would be a VERY good one to hit if possible. Baisha (10 min. north) was also recommended by other travelers.

ZHAOXING
The 411 - A minimally touristed village in a lovely setting on a river. Spend a day hiking up to the village of Tag An and working your way back down through the terraces. From what we've heard, this is a much nicer option than the touted Longsheng terraces - Sans tourists + admission and just as spectacular.

2-3 WEEK ITINERARY
Your cheapest + quickest bet would be to fly to Hong Kong and catch a connecting flight to Guiyang, the provincial capital. Head out by bus to Xijiang (3-5 days), Congjiang area (1 day), then Zhaoxing (2 days) for a taste of village life. Time permitting, continue on into the Guangxi province and get your fill of bridges in the Chengyang area (2 days), before heading on to the Yangshuo area (3-6 days) and it's stunning karst landscape. Take a bus to Guilin where you can catch a flight back to Hong Kong. Obviously plan for at least a couple days in Hong Kong itself.


APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $3-5/2p (One of the best values for your money of any country I've visited)
Meal - $1-2/pp
Tea - Frequently free
Beer - .50
Visa - $55/ 30-60 Day

Visa Info
Must be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. Lengths of stay must be negotiated at time of application. 60-Day is commonly given if applying from home, while anywhere from 30-180 days must be requested when applying at the embassy in a neighboring country. Once in country visas can be extended in several cities for an additional 3o-days for $25-30. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
Stepping back in time and a chance to experience real village life with just enough modern conveniences. The area south of Kaili to north of Sangjiang is dotted with numerous Miao + Dong minority villages alongside rivers + surrounded by stunning terraces. This is a very special place so if you visit, please TREAD LIGHTLY - Respect local culture by dressing modestly and being thoughtful with your photo-taking.

What's Not?
We're really loving it at this of time of writing, but the area is so fragile to tourism development (that China is proceding with everywhere else at mind-boggling speed) that it could change very rapidly.

Will you Starve to Death?
Also very veggie friendly as stir-fry houses are what's it. The produce selection is more limited than Yunnan though and the minority people tend to cook with more spices + oil, so though everything's tastier, it's also likely to be very greasy. Try the sour vegetable soup for a healthier change. Every guest house/hotel provides thermoses of hot water, so if you've got your tea + walnut powder you're still in business. Not much wine available here, except in the bigger cities, but the beer is still o.k.

Will you Dig It?
You've got to like walking in stunning countryside + rural, ethnic villages, but if that's up your alley then this provides much of what places like Annapurna in Nepal or Spiti + Ladakh in India have to offer without all the horrendous hours of transport to get there. Don't expect the religious aspect or total absence of tour groups, but for the time being it's still off-the-beaten path. With the rate China's tourism industry is booming this may not last for long so COME SOON.

Books to Read
There are no second-hand bookstores in this little-touristed province and it's pretty quiet in the evenings, so bring a few. There aren't any books that I've seen dealing with this specific area, so you might want to read something more general about Mao, The Cultural Revolution or other history. Here's one that I've seen around that looks interesting - 1421: The Year China Discovered the World by Gavin Menzies.

Check the "link" for photos from China

CHINA - Yunnan Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

CHINA - Yunnan Province

JINHONG
The 411 - Not worth lingering, but I recommend to set out from here for the Sunday Market in Menghun if you're in the area.

JIANSHUI
The 411 - An undiscovered gem and a treat to discover the friendliness of the people as you stroll through the untouristed, though new, old town and around the "real" old gate in the city center.
Sleep - Garden Hotel has a central location + cheap, clean rooms
Eat - There are lots of little tofu "snack houses" + stir-fry restaurants on the narrow alleys to the south of the gate.

TONGHAI
The 411 - Another untouristed town with a great complex of numerous temples set on a hill. Get up before dawn to avoid the ticket booth and see locals performing Tai Chi in the dawn hour as a bonus. Pack some food and plan to spend at least half a day exploring.
Sleep - Li Yue Hotel is cheap + clean

KUNMING
The 411 - Touted as the "Spring City", this bustling metropolis is nice enough.
See - It's worth being here on a Sunday for people watching in Green Lake Park. Another recommended outing is the walk up into the Western Hills for great views on a clear day. Also, if you have an extra day it IS worth heading over to the Shilin Stone Forest and you CAN easily avoid the ridiculous $20 entry by just walking through the village and the fields beyond. There are no tourists in the outskirts either which makes for a much more enjoyable experience.
Sleep - The Hump is good for meeting other travelers, but if you want a less youthful vibe + for the same, cheap rate, Mingtong Guesthouse is located in a nice neighborhood (in a back street behind the Kunming Hotel) where you can hang with the locals.

DALI
The 411 - Not as touristy as Lijiang, but the Old Town HAS lost it's soul to commericalism aimed at the many Chinese tour groups that pass through. Still, it's worth a few days exploring the area.
See - Rent a bike for 2+ days exploring the lakeside villages on bicycle. Xizhou + Wase are recommended for a good glimpse into village life. Also, hike up the Cangshan Mountains (possibly spending the night at the Higherland Inn) and across the trail connecting the monasteries for fantastic views of Erhai lake. It's a little tricky to avoid the ticket booths, but just cut through the fields like the locals do.
Sleep - Comer Guesthouse (near the most northwestern gate) is another cheap + clean place. Try to get the balcony room for 40 yuan. Travelers Guesthouse (a few doors down) is another good bet.
Eat - Stir-fry restaurants + grill stands abound in the streets off the main tourist drag.

LIJIANG
The 411 - The ultimate in Chinese packaged tourism. You've never SEEN so many shop selling the same, cheap crap! Avoid it.

TIGER LEAPING GORGE
The 411 - A scenic 2-4 day hike that gets you into some really nice villages, particularly Daju at the north end of the gorge. You could easily spend an extra day or two exploring Daju and hiking around the valley. Note that you should allow at least 5 hours to get to Daju as it's not SO easy to find your way down to the Yangtze ferry nor to the bus stand. At the moment, buses depart for Lijiang at 7:30 AM + 1:00 PM daily.
Sleep - Naxi Guesthouse (2 hrs. in) is a good place to spend your first night. Five Fingers (5 hrs. further) has great views but could use some sprucing up. Tibet Guesthouse (3 hours further still) in Walnut Garden is a better bet than Sean's which is overpriced and lacking in friendliness for all it's hype. All provide plenty of blankets and offer decent food.

2-3 WEEK ITINERARY
Your cheapest + quickest bet would be to fly to Hong Kong and catch a connecting flight to Kunming (2-4 days). Head south by bus to Tonghai (1 day) + Jianshui (2-3 days) for a taste of untouristed city life. Bus back to Kunming, then to Dali (3-5 days) for biking + hiking in the hills and around the lakeside villages. Time permitting, continue directly on to Tiger Leaping Gorge + Daju for a few more days (3-5 days) in stunning scenery. From here your best options are to either continue to Chengdu, where you'll want to spend another few days before flying back to Hong Kong, or busing back to Kunming for your return flight. Obviously plan for at least a couple days in Hong Kong itself.


APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $4-10/2p (One of the best values for your money of any country I've visited)
Meal - $1-3/pp
Tea - Frequently free
Beer - .50
Visa - $55/ 30-60 Day

Visa Info
Must be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. Lengths of stay must be negotiated at time of application. 60-Day is commonly given if applying from home, while anywhere from 30-180 days must be requested when applying at the embassy in a neighboring country. Once in country visas can be extended in several cities for an additional 3o-days for $25-30. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
The people, the social food scene, villages, temples + neon. Yunnan is not NEARLY as touristed by foreigners as all the other asian countries we've visted, nor does it cater to them, so it's a good chance to hang with the locals.

What's Not?
Charging entrance (not cheap either) for EVERY, SINGLE thing you can possibly charge entry to, Chinese tour groups + souvenir stalls (most specifically in Dali, Lijiang + Shilin).

Will you Starve to Death?
Maybe the easiest place to be a vegetarian in Asia, contrary to popular belief. There's tofu available everywhere! Grilled at "snack houses" or from the stir-fry restaurants where you just pick + choose whatever you want (including a big variety of vegetables, or meats), or bbq stands (also with different kinds of tofu, veg + meats). A favorite lunch was the local bread, which is sometimes similar to foccacia or pizza dough, with the local goat cheese "rubing" (ask for it in the outdoor markets when you're buying your fruit + veggies) with tomatoes, cilantro, etc. - tasty! A good breakfast was the instant "walnut drink", available in the grocery store, with fresh fruit + oats. Every guest house/hotel provides thermoses of hot water, so if you're a tea drinker you'll be in heaven. Try the regional Yunnan red wines too - Dynasty brand is a good bet.

Will you Dig It?
You don't have to be an outdoor enthusiast to like this province, though for the villages you will have to forego some creature comforts. This gives you a nice mix of urban + rural and lots of photo ops as well as an opportunity to break the Chinese stereotype.

Books to Read
We didn't see any second-hand bookstores that I recall, so it's best to bring your own. Here are two that are both entertaining + informative - The River at the Center of the World by Simon Winchester, Riding the Iron Rooster by Paul Theroux

Check the "link" for photos from China

LAOS Recommendations

Here are a few things NOT in the guide books that we HIGHLY recommend.

LAOS

SAVANAKHET
The 411 - Not bad for a border town, and a place to just chill for a couple days. Be sure to have sunset beers + green papaya salad on the banks of the Mekong with the locals as sunset. The people here are some of the friendliest we met.
Sleep - Sisouk Guesthouse is in an old home with a nice family vibe

DON DET (Four Thousand Islands)
The 411 - A great place to while away the days and COMPLETELY unwind amidst scenic river islands. Don't expect to be off-the-beaten-path though as tourists are outnumbering the locals these days. Still, this is a special place and you could easily relax every bone in your body with a week-long stay of biking, walking, reading, chatting + swimming.

BAN NA HIN
The 411 - Quaint village set amidst a beautiful, limestone karst landscape. The word we heard was to skip Kong Lo Cave. In hindsight we wish we'd trusted our instincts instead of the reviews and done the 3-day moto "Loop" out of Ta Khaek to better admire the scenery + enjoy the villages. If you're planning on going to Ninh Binh in Vietnam this would be redundant and offers less ease of solo exploration.
Eat - To's Restaurant (next to the market) serves up huge portions of veg rice noodles with the charm of To to top it off.

VIENTIANE
The 411 - Super-chill for a capital city. Cars are beginning to outnumber motos these days, but it still retains the feel of a big village. Worth a couple days of exploration and more if you're in need of some down time or cheap internet.
Eat - Breakfast of almond croissants from a bakery a couple doors down from the Boulangerie. Dinner at food stall row - Great phad thai at the place with red walls for $1. Spicy papaya salad served up with a smile for .70 at one of the food carts on the alley across, and try the sticky rice with sweet black beans for dessert from the woman at the neighboring cart.

VANG VIENG
The 411 - Home of the endless "Spring Break". If you're not coming here looking to get wasted, laid or watch reruns then head on over to the west side of the river for a more "adult" experience. Spend a few days touring the caves in the valley by foot, climbing up a karst and padling on an inner tube through eerie Nam cave, a memorable experience. If your focus is karsts, the scenery in Guangxi Province in southern China or Halong Bay in Vietnam is much more spectacular. Vang Vieng's claim is more about water play or just playing.
Sleep - May Lyn Bungalows (west side of river on dirt road into the karst valley) is a chill gathering spot for interesting people, set in a lovely garden with views. Skip the food though.
Eat - Nisha Indian's chana masala, malai kofta, palak paneer, aloo muttar + naan are the best we've had since India (and even better than most there!)

LUANG PRABANG
The 411 - A pretty, preserved town with nice wats + a great night market to buy well-designed souveniers. Make sure to also spend a day at Kuang Si waterfall. Hike up to the top to discover the primo swim spot.
Eat - The night market's got a little something for everyone at rock-bottom prices. Also try the local specialty watercress salad.
Shop - The night market here has a huge array of well-designed stuff for you, family and ALL your friends. Why not at THESE prices?!

LUANG NAMTHA
The 411 - A bit of a dusty town, but the people here are some of the friendliest in Laos. This makes a good stop of you're heading onwards to China, Northern Thailand or into the tribal areas.
Eat - The Coffee House is owned by a super-friendly Thai couple who serves up tasty, cheap meals, great coffee + lots of good vibe.


2-3 WEEK ITINERARY
Your cheapest + quickest bet would be to take the train from Bangkok to the border at Nakhon Pathon, and you COULD spend your entire trip relaxing on Don Det/Dhon Khon. Another option would be to take the overnight bus or train from Bangkok to Vientiane and continue north from there. A stop that came highly recommened that we missed was Mong Ngoi Neua - Sounds like Vang Vieng without the kids and might even be worth the bulk of your time. If you've really got your heart set on it, DO come to Laos. Our opinion though is that the neighboring countries have more to see and friendlier/more engaging people, which tends to make for a more memorable trip.


APPROXIMATE COSTS (For Low Budget Travel)
Room - $3-7/2p
Meal - $2-5/pp
Coffee - .40
Beer - .50
Moto/Bicycle - $4-10/$1
Visa - $30-35/ 30 Day (Transit visas no longer available)

Visa Info
May be applied for in advance, either from capitals of neighboring countries or at your home embassy. A 30-day Tourist Visa-On-Arrival can be obtained at the airport + most land border crossings for the same cost. Note that you pay $5 more on weekdays at the border. Once in country visas can be extended in Vientianne for $2/day at the government office or in Luang Prabang for $5/day at a travel agent for up to 30 days. After 60 days you must exit + re-enter the country for further stay. Check the "link" for more info.

What's to Like?
Karst (limestone) formations set in rice paddies, caves, the Mekong, chilling out + meeting other tourists.

What's Not?
The people are pretty stand-offish, maybe a bit TOO chill, but this would be a great destination choice if that's what you're after and you want a bit more culture than just a beach holiday. Also, avoid March - June as it's blazing hot and VERY smoky from the slash + burn agriculture practiced in the North. We were back in August, and even with the rains, it was MUCH prettier at this time of year.

Will you Starve to Death?
The food here is similiar to the spicier Thai of the Isan area. You'll see curries everywhere. Popular street foods include grilled meats + seafood as well as very spicy green papaya salad accompanied with sticky rice, and phad thai. Also popular are the Vietnamese baguette sandwiches (Vegetarians can get them with cheese + veg, or egg) + pho (noodle soup). Lots of western food appears on the menu, but as always, ask a fellow diner or see what's being served before ordering. Generally though, we found the food to be pretty high quality, though not inspiring. Coffee is not as tasty + strong as the Vietnamese, but it's alot better than your average American cup of Joe. Most restaurants that cater to foreigners serve up tasty French-style crepes or American-style pancakes and some even bake delicious croissants + pastries.

Will you Dig It?
It's more chill than stress for a third-world holiday and will give you a much less "western" experience than neighboring Thailand, but unfortunately without the smiles. It's the scruffy cousin, separated only by the Mekong, but a world apart. And one of the best chances to experience village life. Transportation isn't glamorous, but it's not difficult to get around either. Bring a book or two to read in between chatting with fellow travelers. DO NOT come in the Spring, but it's not high on MY list for any time of year. In the numerous conversations we've had with other travelers, most dug the country MUCH more than we did. I guess that's just to say to each their own.

Books to Read
Vientianne has the only second-hand bookshops that we saw, and the selection is o.k. It's best to bring a couple with you and trade them in. Two good reads are The Spirit Catches You and You Fall Down by Anne Fadiman and A River's Tale: A Year on the Mekong by Edward Gargan.

Check the "link" for photos from Laos